Kibune

Kibune, it seems, is the 'place to be' for the rich and famous in and around Kyoto. One is given this impression immediately as the never ending motorcade of Mercedes and BMW's winds its way through the narrow strip of posh restaurants, shops and traditional ryokan (old-style Japanese guesthouses).

The town itself is beautiful, nestled in among the mountains and hugging the bank of a small alpine stream. In the hot, humid summer months the many restaurants along the stream lay out platforms over the cool waters and spread out tatami mats and tables so that diners can enjoy their food in the sheltered rocky gully.

Kibune lies on the opposite side of Kurama mountain from Kurama town. After a long hike through the mountains, it seemed to be the perfect end to the day to enjoy a nice full meal on the river. This, of course, neglected to take into account the fact that few restaurants are very welcoming to sweaty tourists who want to bust in and rub elbows with Kyoto's elite.

That is why it was only after an infuriating run-in with the staff of one of the restaurants (one of whom ran across the street to us yelling "Dame! Dame! Dame!", or basically "No way, get lost!") when we tried to go in.

Where we did end up eating was actually much more to our liking all the same. Instead of pickled fish, we were treated to Sukiyaki (a mix of tender beef and vegetables fried in an iron skillet with sugar and soy) which was prepared right at our table by one of the kimono-clad waitstaff. We sat directly above a gurgling waterfall, surrounded by the moss-covered rocky banks of the stream, all bathed in the soft light of rice paper lanterns.

This day had to have ranked as one of our top days in Japan: starting with a soothing soak in the natural hotsprings of Kurama, followed by an invigorating hike through the mountains and topped off with an amazing dinner in one of the most beautiful settings imaginable.

Top left, one of the platforms above a small water, and another (top right) just below another waterfall. Me, above, at our table on the river and one of the waitstaff, right, cooking up some sukiyaki.